HINTS ON GRAFFITI

1. Type of Graffiti
2. Nature of the surface to be treated
3. Environment
4. Product selected

1.  TYPE OF GRAFFITI

Paint, crayon and marker vary widely in chemical composition.  Generally speaking, blue and green colors can be more difficult to remove than red or black.  The thicker and older the marks, the harder/longer you need to work to remove them.  Agitation with a non-abrasive nylon brush or polyester scrub pad will speed removal.  Since GRAFFITI GONE! is water based, if a second application is needed, it can be done immediately.  If you're not sure the product has soaked enough, agitate it gently to see if the graffiti is loose enough to be rinsed.  If not, let it soak longer before rinsing.

2.  NATURE OF THE SURFACE TO BE TREATED

Surfaces vary as much as the marks.  Usually, we separate the unpainted, rough and durable surfaces from the painted, smooth and delicate surfaces.  Generally, the textured surfaces are harder to clean, take longer soaking times and may leave a ghost or shadow unless the proper product is used.  A water-based remover, like any GRAFFITI-GONE! , is better suited than a solvent-based type for these porous surfaces, though they may take a little longer to soak.  Smoother surfaces clean more easily, but painted walls and delicate areas, such as a traffic sign or plastic, may need special gentle products that will not damage the surface.  Gentle agitation with a nylon brush or polyester pad may speed the process, as will a hot water and/or pressurized rinse.  On indoor surfaces, wipe with a damp rag or sponge and rinse the rag frequently.  Anti-graffiti sealers like GRAFFITI-BLOCK! are recommended for any surface that (1) gets tagged frequently, (2) is hard to clean or (3) is easily damaged by either the graffiti or the cleaning process.

3.  ENVIRONMENT

Environmental conditions also impact removal. Recommended removal temperatures are 60 °F to 100 °F (or 16 °C to 30 °C). If it is too hot, the products evaporate too fast. If it is too cold, the products take too long to work. And please note that the temperature of the surface is more significant than the temperature of the air. On summer days, work in the early morning or when the wall is shaded. On hot surfaces, try cooling them with water prior to applying product. Avoid hot afternoon sun which can raise the temperature of a wall to 150 °F (67 °C). On winter days, do just the opposite. Work on sunny afternoons, when the wall has had a chance to warm up. Avoid saturating a porous surface with water if the wall will get a hard freeze before the water can evaporate.

4.  PRODUCT SELECTED

Our products usually work on many surfaces, though frequently they  have a special use, such as for unpainted brick or for trees.  We strongly recommend that you follow label directions carefully on the first attempt.  If performance is not satisfactory, you can try some of the tips mentioned above, or you can contact our Technical Support Team for assistance.  One issue you should be aware of is that surfaces can be damaged by the graffiti itself.  For example, graffiti made by scratching glass can not be removed because the surface has been damaged.  Similarly, the solvents in spray paint and permanent markers can damage painted or soft surfaces.  After the remover cleans off the marks, the damage will remain.  Soft Plexiglas and vinyl are surfaces that come to mind.  Similarly, if the graffiti chemically bonds to or soaks into the surface, total removal is impossible without removing part of the surface.  For example, water-based flat latex paint actually absorbs spray paint and removal takes off some of the surface paint.  Delicate surfaces are frequently better served by using anti-graffiti sealers such as our GRAFFITI-BLOCK!.  These coatings prevent the graffiti from even touching the surface.

When in doubt, follow these 3 rules: 1) always test a small area first, 2) use the lowest water pressure possible to rinse and 3) send us an email describing your exact problem.